If you're ready to read a lot and a few less photos than usual, then welcome!
The way back from Aguas Calientes we did the same walk of the train tracks.
Only now we were extremely well rested because of two extra days in town (Chey was feeling slightly ill so we decided to stay), and no crazy ride before the walk.
 |
| Before going away, though, I had to get my photo with this cool Inca guy. |
 |
| Leaving Aguas Calientes (where, funnily enough, we didn't get much luck regarding hot showers) *AC means "hot waters" |
 |
| The train arriving to town. |
 |
| Chey frolicking in the sun. |
 |
| "It is forbidden for pedestrians to go through the tunnel" |
 |
| "You're not the boss of me, sign!" |
 |
| Last bit of train tracks. |
We had to endure an even crazier driver (than the one on the way there) after Hidroeléctrica; so I tell anyone thinking about doing MP on the cheap/ alternative way: do NOT book a van with "viva tours".
And just in case: a guide for this is absolutely superfluous and takes away your freedom to move and stop and use your time as you want to (though if you really love the idea of a guide I won't say don't do it).
We arrived in Cuzco at night (again) and went straight to the place where we had stayed before (hot showers, comfortable room, cheap). As it turned out, they didn't have any room available other than a horrible, horrible, windowless closet upstairs where we suffered from the cold and the hideous super-loud music of the pub next door.
Obviously the following morning we left and looked for greener pastures. After seeing around 15 different places, we found a place that looked perfect.
We arrived at the same time as other couple. They checked in first in the room next to ours, and as we were finishing with our check in, we heard the yelling of the girl in the shower: "EEEEEEEEK!" "WHY ME!!" and other expressions of despair as the showers were apparently not the most reliable.
We looked at each other probably thinking the same: what's done is done.
Then we dropped the bags and went for lunch. Being back to Cuzco (and Papachos) felt almost like getting back home.
...
This time we stayed a little longer in town (around one week), but there's not too much to say about it because we were basically taking care of Visa-related boring stuff.
There was one thing, though, that was extremely interesting and broke with the monotony of paperwork.
After A LOT of reading and investigating and considering, we decided to go to a San Pedro ceremony.
In Perú and the neighboring countries it's nothing like in Argentina: there's a deep respect and connection with the indigenous cultures and inside this, many traditions that are adopted as a part of the cultural identity.
San Pedro is just one of the many plant medicines that the tribes of America used (and still use) with healing purposes. Only the healing is not necessarily seen just in the physical sense, but on a deeper level of the mind and the emotions.
In Peru, plant medicines like San Pedro and Ayahuasca are not only legal, but also offered widely to a range of foreigners who approach them from different perspectives, and even travel from overseas with the express purpose of taking them.
Of course there must be people wanting to try them just for the "high". Who am I to judge.
Others are looking for a higher something, a sort of spiritual connection or revelation.
Being as I am, extremely skeptic and non-religious, some of the things I read or heard about San Pedro didn't convince me. But in the end we went to this lovely "chaman" lady, who spoke to us in such a way that made us extremely comfortable and ready to go through the ceremony without feeling like we were being sucked into some kind of religious cult.
So the previous day of our ceremony there was no Pisco sour, and we had a very light and early dinner and went straight to bed, only to wake up super early and have no breakfast.
We got together with the other people who were doing the ceremony with us (a couple older than us, a young guy and a young girl) and were taken to the chaman's house: a gorgeous place with two lush gardens and a little hut in the middle of one garden where the ceremony took place.
 |
| This is the only photo we took there, before the ceremony started. |
The ceremony was simple and not too ostentatious. We were sitting on a circle until the (pretty tough to swallow) cactus juice started working. By then the chaman and three of her helpers were with us, and also a man from a tribe that live high up the Andes, at over 6000 masl, who said a short speech in his language (which we didn't understand but found very beautiful regardless).
Once the medicine was starting to act, we walked outside to the garden with mats and fluffy blankets, and each person found their spot.
It took a long while for me to actually feel anything but drowsiness; but at some point, very slowly and naturally, all things started feeling more and more perfect and natural.
I went through various states, but only within a spectrum of happiness, calm and a sort of deep connection.
As I said before I am deeply unreligious, so it wasn't that sort of connection I felt. Instead, it was a marvelous feeling of perfectly perceiving that part of the mind I rarely get in touch with, distracted by more shallow things.
I basically spent the afternoon lying in the sunny garden, touching every blade of grass, marveling at the shape of the clouds, and realizing things that I basically always knew, but usually get covered by the mishmash of everyday life things.
What things? Well, I don't think it's important. They were not "revelations" from some outside, but a realization of things buried deep inside me. All good and perfect and happy things.
At some point in the afternoon, the helper girl brought us fruit salad to break the fast. I can honestly say I never had such a fruit salad in my life. The little fork she had brought along seemed almost sinful, so I put it aside and eat with my hands like a happy monkey, to the girl's amusement.
At the end of the afternoon we took a walk around the ruins of the Moon Temple, which is right in front of the house. We were all wrapped in blankets because it was already cold, and just enjoyed the rest of our time there. It was a beautiful sunset and I almost regret not taking pictures of it, though then and there it was the last thing in my mind.
In the ruins there's a cave with some deep meaning for the indigenous people where (it's thought) they used to make ritual sacrifices.
Some of the people of our group fell into what seemed like a religious experience, kneeling on the ground and (I thought) blowing into a fire that was lit inside a crack on the floor.
One of the helpers took us inside the cave and started talking about the meaning of the symbols and carvings, and suddenly the young guy told Chey "what happened to the fire?".
I looked into the crack on the floor and there was nothing. The helper said "there was no fire".
But both Chey and I and the young guy saw the others blow into a fire. Collective hallucination? Trick of the light?
It was pretty intense.
Then I started feeling claustrophobic and uncomfortable. The idea of the ritual sacrifices is pretty disturbing for me even while fully sober, so I left and waited outside while the rest of the group left a coca leaves offering at the altar. Chey came with me and wrapped both of us in his fluffy blanket.
Still the walk of the ruins ended beautifully, up at a condor-shaped rock, with the helper saying some beautiful words I can't, for the life of me, remember. I do remember feeling comforted and happy just to be there.
When the light was almost gone, we left in a taxi to go back to Cuzco. All of the others stayed in the house up the hills, but we needed to get back to our hospedaje because we were worried the staff were going to move our things out if we didn't return for the night (a boring side story: our hospedaje was actually sort of dreadful).
Only then we found out that we were still up for four or five hours of SanPedrish feeling, which felt very awkward during the taxi ride with a (luckily) very sober taxi driver.
The taxi took us back to the meeting place in town, a hostel, where we were told to stay for as long as we wanted or until the effect was gone. There we found the helper girl and a friend of hers, who stayed chatting with us and made us feel really good and welcome and grounded us a lot.
After a while we felt two things: two kind-of clearer heads, and two very empty bellies. So on the recommendation of the girls, we went to a very popular vegan restaurant to have something light but filling.
 |
| This might be the least flattering photo of myself I've ever posted, but I want you guys to see what people around me were seeing. |
 |
| We couldn't stop randomly bursting into laughter. |
 |
| And to make things worse thay served us this strange soup. Who makes yin-yang soup? |
 |
| Still nice. It had flowers in it. |
 |
| Chey, posing very naturally. |
 |
| Chey's huge pupils and an accidental sneaky pic of the lovey couple behind him. |
 |
| He was also amused by the soup. |
We were still giggly and light headed for a long while, which felt strange now we were back in the city and surrounded by other (very normal, it seemed) people. That made us even gigglier (is that even a word?).
We remained in that state even after dinner and in our hospedaje, until we went to sleep (and fell asleep like babies, instantly and deeply).
 |
| The last photo of the day: happy faces. |
If I had the chance I'd definitely do it again, and I strongly recommend you that if you ever go to Peru ,you find a good place and do it.
It's not "getting high" or "doing drugs" (though it does have mescaline, don't get me wrong)... it's what I'd call a shortcut to a deeper level of consciousness and a respected medicine among older, wiser cultures.
A few disclaimers:
*Not everyone has a flowery, lovely, mylittlepony-ish experience with SP as I did. It probably has a lot to do with your state of mind and your intentions.
We read about people taking the wrong amount, or mixing it with other mind-altering substances, and having very bad experiences.
*In many parts of the world, SP is considered just a drug. As much as I loved the experience and what I took out of it, I would never recommend anyone taking it without someone who knows about it, or in a place where it's illegal.
*Also, I strongly believe that we should respect things that belong to another culture's ancestral traditions. Meaning: to them this is a sacred medicine, not something you take for a high.
*If you were going to Perú or Cuzco and wanted more information, or just have curiosity about something, I'd be happy to talk about it via private message (you can message me on facebook or leave your email on a comment).
